
From central Headington proceed down Windmill Road on to the Slade, and turn right into the nature reserve soon after passing Girdlestone Road
There are also footpaths from the Churchill Hospital, Peat Moors, and the street called Lye Valley
© OpenStreetMap contributors. Used under the
Open Database Licence
Grass of Parnassus
Clubbed General soldierfly
Marsh helleborine
The Lye Brook was once the centre of a large boggy area known by various names including 'Hogley Bog' and ‘Bullingdon Bog. It is a very rare environment: a wet area, fed by lime-rich springs along the valley walls, making it technically a 'calcareous fen'. It is home to many unusual plants that are adapted to this environment, including the marsh helleborine, an orchid which flourishes here, and grass of Parnassus, a very rare species in this part of the UK. It is also abundant in wild-life: unusual insects including the brown hairstreak butterfly and glow-worms, birds such as the reed warbler, reptiles (grass snakes, slow-worms and lizards) and of course foxes, badgers, and occasional deer. The importance of this area has led to the designation of two Sites of Special Scientific Interest, the North and South Fens, which are protected by national legislation.
For centuries this was common land used for grazing animals, which kept grass and reeds short, allowing the flowers to flourish. But over the last century, the valley has changed: large estates have grown up around it, trees have colonized it, and the vegetation has changed. Now there is a major threat to its continued existence because of hydrological issues. The fen is wetted by natural springs, but the catchment area for these springs, once open country, is now very much built up – and threatened by further development. In addition, water run-off from the surrounding area, instead of percolating gently into the ground, is now captured in large drains and fed into the brook. When there is heavy rain, the brook becomes a raging torrent, and the bed and the walls are being eroded. This increased flow is threatening the fenland. As the brook sinks lower between its banks, water drains off the fen, leading to a gradual drying out of the fens.
- Peat and Carbon in the Lye Valley Fens (PDF, February 2021)
- Plants in the Lye Valley North Fen, (PDF, updated September 2019)
- Report on the North Fen Invertebrates by Steve Gregory, 2018
Research supported by Headington Action - List of Important invertebrates in the Lye Valley (PDF)
- List of the most important plants remaining in the
Lye Valley with their conservation designations (PDF) - Details of plants and fungi in the Lye Valley fens (PDF)
- Butterflies and moths found in the Lye Valley (PDF)
- Biological Heritage Summary of the Lye Valley (PDF)
- Alkaline fens and the importance of the Lye Valley SSSI fens within Oxfordshire and nationally/internationally (J. A. Webb, 2014: PDF)
- Steve Pickles, “Environmental factors and the distribution of reptiles at Lye Valley, Oxford” in Fritillary 7 (ANHSO), accessible from http://www.fritillary.org.uk/
- Steve Pickles, “Population Structure of Epipactis palustris at three sites in Oxfordshire” (PDF about marsh helleborine orchids)
Slow worm at Town Furze
Read more about the Lye Valley in:
Article by Dr Judy Webb in The Weasel
Article by Keith Frayn and Judy Webb in Headington Monthly
The iron-rich springs of the Lye Valley
This article explains why there is no need to worry if you see brown oily-looking stains in the water in the Lye Valley:
You don’t know what you’ve got till it’s gone…
Dr Judy Webb continuously scientifically monitors the wildlife of the north and south Lye Valley fens. Changes can result from improved management (cutting and raking reed) and detrimental factors e.g. water flows from the Thames Water drain gouging out the Lye and Boundary brooks which desiccates the fens.
Read Judy’s report and specimen list for the north fen.
Right: Marsh lousewort (Pedicularis palustris) is the one species
that is most likely to be lost with drying, but it has shown the
biggest resurgence
as a result of all the cutting and
raking
Birds in the Lye Valley (47 species)
Blackbird |
Great Tit |
Nuthatch |
Blackcap |
Green Woodpecker |
Pheasant |
Black-headed Gull
|
Greenfinch |
Pied Wagtail |
Blue Tit |
Grey Wagtail |
Red Kite |
Bullfinch |
Herring Gull |
Redstart |
Buzzard |
Jackdaw |
Reed Bunting |
Carrion Crow |
Jay |
Robin |
Chaffinch |
Kestrel |
Siskin |
Chiffchaff |
Kingfisher |
Song Thrush |
Collared Dove |
Lesser Black‑backed Gull |
Starling |
Dunnock |
Little Egret |
Stock Dove |
Feral Pigeon/Rock Dove |
Long-tailed Tit |
Swift |
Garden Warbler |
Magpie |
Whitethroat |
Goldcrest |
Mallard |
Winter Wren |
Goldfinch |
Mistle Thrush |
Woodpigeon |
Great Spotted Woodpecker |
Moorhen |
Thanks to Tom Bedford and Dave Lowe for their bird observations
Plants in Lye Valley with Red List status
The Botanical Society of Britain & Ireland (BSBI) has released a new Red Data list for Vascular plants in England – see http://bsbi.org.uk/england.html
According to this re-assessment of threat status to plants, fourteen of the plants in the Lye Valley fens have now a national status – either Near Threatened or Vulnerable. Previously, when considered in the context of the whole of Great Britain, their status was LC – least concern.
Losses in England have been so great that the BSBI have felt it important to highlight the dire straits in which some wild flowers are in England, hence the new Red List.
The Catchment of the Lye Valley North Fen

This map shows Surface and Groundwater Catchment Limits combined (thick black line) on a street map for the Lye Valley North fen area. This is the ground area within which rainwater falling on the soil, infiltrates and moves down into the limestone aquifer (store) to later emerge as special calcium-rich water in the springs which feed the Lye Valley SSSI and LWS fens (northern part of old Hogley Bog).
This map is drawn by J. Webb from a street map and the calculated catchment limits in the hydrological report of Curt Lamberth carried out for Oxford City Council (2007)*.
Surface water travels through the top layers of the soil, ground water travels in the limestone at a deeper level. Obviously surface water feeds down into groundwater after a time.
The limit lines for the two types of catchment are slightly different but they have been combined for simplicity and because they are both important. Please see Lamberth’s original report* for the separate catchments. He has checked this map for accuracy and states that the surface water limits are indicative only and has suggested a probable extension (red dashed line) of the groundwater limit, but as yet the data is not available to prove this.
Do you live within the catchment limits? If you do it is important what you do with your garden areas. If you want to help save the Lye Valley wetland, it is important not to pave over either front or back garden, because the soil in these areas will feed water to the springs. If you pave it you prevent rainwater entering the soil and this will deprive the springs, eventually (even if your paving has a tiny effect, imagine the combined effect of all the gardens in your street paving their green areas).
Paved areas, roads, pavements (hard surfacing) shed rainwater into surface water drains which pour out into the Lye brook to erode the stream banks and cause the fens to dry out.
Within the catchment area all green spaces, gardens and road verges are vitally important because they are freely permeable to rainwater. The playing fields of Wood Farm School and Peat Moors recreation field are particularly important as they are big green areas. But all green back gardens, allotments etc. are also important.
Within the catchment, all verges should remain green and uncompacted i.e. not parked-on or tarmacked. The springs need every drop that currently infiltrates because many of them have already dried up as a consequence of previous housing development.

Key: SSSI – Site of Special Scientific Interest (National designation & national importance)
LWS – Local Wildlife Site (wildlife of county importance)
Videos of the Lye Valley during heavy rain
The stream
The source (grating) and the contribution from road run-off (stream from right)
The cascade (among trees near the source)
Constitution of the Friends of Lye Valley (PDF)
Gerard Manley Hopkins, ‘Inversnaid’